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约翰·加利亚诺(JohnGalliano)

王朝百科·作者佚名  2010-04-11
窄屏简体版  字體: |||超大  

John Galliano

约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano):

1960年出生于直布罗陀,父亲是英国和意大利的后裔,母亲为西班牙人,内敛的严谨与豪放的热情结合的血统,或许正是造就约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 惊艳四座的才思的源本。

1980年约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 进入英国圣马丁艺术学院,尝试了绘画和建筑学习,最终选择了时装设计。4年的求学生涯,激发了他心底最原始最纯粹的创作渴求和自我梦想。1984年,他从法国大革命中汲取灵感,奉上了个人的毕业设计作品发布会“LESIN-CROYABLES”,其作品的精湛新颖在整个英伦引起轰动。英国品牌 BROWNS 甚至在发布会刚结束就将整台服装买下并在其店铺橱窗内展示。

横空出世的成功让约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 信心倍增,大学毕业后他在伦敦东部的一个废弃的仓库里开了个人工作室,开启了其执着又狂热的设计生涯。1985年,约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 很快就打出了个人冠名的牌子,他的标新立异不仅体现在作品的不规则、多元素、极度视觉化等非主流特色上,更是独立于商业利益驱动的时装界外的一种艺术的回归,是少数几个首先将时装看作艺术,其次才是商业的设计师之一。

1988年约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 被评选为英国最佳设计师。在其后每季度的时装展示会上,他都推陈出新,展现顽童般天马行空的思维。1995年约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 移居法国接管 GIVENCHY 的设计师位置,但他的个人风格与 GIVENCHY 的品牌诉求存在相悖之处。1997年他又接掌Christian Dior 首席设计师,并成功地实现了将 Dior 品牌年轻化的任务——对于约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 这样的鬼才,只要给他一个支点,他就能颠覆所有庸俗和陈规,而“无可救药的浪漫主义大师”之名也从此成为约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 专属的称谓。

纵观约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 历年作品,从早期融合了英式古板和世纪末浪漫的歌剧特点的设计,到溢满怀旧情愫的斜裁 (bias cut ) 剪裁技术,从野性十足的重金属及皮件中充斥的朋克霸气,到断裂褴褛式黑色装束中肆意宣泄的后现代激情,人们总能真切感觉到穿着这些衣装的躯体不再是单纯的衣架,而是有血有肉的生命在彰显灵魂的驿动。

除此之外,约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 海盗般英俊的脸庞和身姿,更是吸引大批粉丝的一大动因哦!

约翰·加利亚诺 (John Galliano) 官方网址:

http://www.johngalliano.com/

Born in Gibraltar to a Gibraltarian father and a Spanish mother, Galliano moved to London as a child and attended Wilson's School in Wallington. In 1984, he graduated in fashion design from St. Martin's School of Arts with a collection inspired by the French Revolution. The collection, titled Les Incroyables, received positive reviews and was bought in its entirety by and sold in the London fashion boutique "Browns". Galliano then started his own label under his name and began his career as a fashion designer. He was awarded British Designer of the Year in 1987, 1994 and 1995. In 1997, he shared the award with Alexander McQueen, his successor at Givenchy. Fashion guru Susannah Constantine has worked for Galliano in the past.[1] and he has also aided the future success of other designers including the renowned shoe designer Patrick Cox.

In the 1990s, Galliano relocated to Paris in search of financial backing and a strong client base. In 1991 he started his long lasting collaboration with Kylie Minogue, designing the costumes for her Let's Get to It Tour. In 1995, he was appointed as the designer of Givenchy by Bernard Arnault owner of luxury goods congolmerate LVMH, thus becoming the first British designer to head a French haute couture house. Less than two years later, on October 14, 1996, LVMH moved Galliano to Christian Dior. His first couture show for Dior coincided with the label's 50th anniversary, on January 20, 1997.

He has been quoted as identifying his love of theatre and femininity as central to his creations – "my role is to seduce" he has said. Galliano has reputedly cited Charlize Theron as a muse and has been creating couture dresses for her to wear to red carpet events such as the 2006 Academy Awards and the 2005 Golden Globes. She is also part of the ad campaign for Dior's "J'Adore" perfume, while Riley Keough, granddaughter of Elvis Presley, fronts his "Miss Dior Cherie" perfume, and Kate Moss, in photographs by Nick Knight, his ready-to-wear campaigns. Cate Blanchett and Nicole Kidman have also worn dresses created by him to the Academy Awards in the past.

Currently, between his own label and Dior, Galliano produces six couture and ready-to-wear collections a year and a new mid-season range under his own name "G Galliano".

Galliano says he follows a rigorous exercise regime which sees him rise at 6am each morning to complete a gruelling, 40-minute aerobic session with his personal trainer, before embarking on a 10-minute stretch, doing 150 push-ups and a six-mile jog along the banks of the Seine River.[citation needed] "Working flat out, it was a necessary step to take," he once said. "It helps to concentrate the mind and I find that I have so much more energy and focus."[citation needed]In 2000, he said that he also had found his inspiration for the couture collection of boho-meets-hobo chic he unveiled that January during his jogging sessions, when running past the homeless people lining the river. He added that he hoped to expose the pure decadence of couture by "turning it inside out". Similarities between Galliano and the fictional amoral fashion designer Mugatu, with his "Derelicte" homeless fashion show, from the movie Zoolander have been pointed out by some comentators. [2]

1^ Just a couple of swells — observer.guardian.co.uk

2^ Zoolander Ben Has Last Laugh — thisislondon.co.uk

 
 
 
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