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The climbing history of K2【1】, Chogori, Mount Godwin-Austen, from the first try in 1902, until the Italian success in 1954.
【1】K2：在国外西方人习惯称呼的K2峰，在国内则被习惯称之为乔戈里峰。为了符合国内称谓习惯，本译文对文中的称谓“K2”全部译为“乔戈里峰”！
1856 - DISCOVERED AND NAMED
1856年—发现并被命
K2 was first described by the British colonel T.G. Montgomery in 1856 while doing a survey of the area. He named the peaks in the order he saw them, K1, K2, K3, etc. The K stands for Karakorum. Today K2 is the only major mountain that still uses its surveyors notation name as its most common name. K2 with its height of 8,611 meters is the second highest mountain in the world and is regarded as one of the hardest to climb.
乔戈里峰首先是被英国陆军上校T.G.蒙特哥摩利（T.G.Montgomery）在他1856年对喀喇昆仑地区进行的勘测中描述。他以K1、K2、K3等这样的顺序来给他所见到的山峰命名。字母K代表喀喇昆仑山脉【2】。今天，K2峰（即乔戈里峰）是绝无仅有的、现在仍在使用以勘探员赋予的名字作为它最常用名的主要山峰。乔戈里峰海拔8，611米，是世界第二高峰，并被认为是最难攀登的山峰之一。
【2】喀喇昆仑山脉：是一条走向与旁遮普·喜马雅山（大喜马拉雅山脉的一部分）相平行的大山脉。它延伸约400千米，通过印度和巴基斯坦北部。“喀喇昆仑”在土耳其语中意为“黑色碎石”。
1902 - THE FIRST TRY
1902年—首次尝试
In 1902, a six-man group of European climbers, led by the Englishman Eckenstein, headed for K2. They chose the time before the monsoon.
They first crossed the Baltoro glacier, which with its length of 67 kilometres is the worlds third largest. The expedition reached the mountains foot and planned to make the attempt directly from the south over the Southeast Ridge, but when in place they came to the conclusion that the Northeast Ridge is probably much easier. Several attempts were made without success. They only reached 6,600 metres - this group had an unrealistic goal, and didnt realise their limits. At this time, early in the century, they had no idea of the difficulties in ascending such a high mountain.
1902年，一个6人组成的欧洲登山小组，在英国人艾肯斯坦（Eckenstein）的率领下，前往攀登乔戈里峰。他们选择了季风来临前的时间进行攀登。他们首先穿越了长67公里，世界第三大的巴尔托洛（Baltoro）冰川。探险队到达了山脚，试图计划直接从南面越过东南山脊攀登乔戈里峰；但是当他们到了适当的地方之后，他们认为从东北山脊攀登可能更加容易些。几次试登之后都没有成功。他们仅仅到了海拔6，600米的地方—这一支探险队的目标不切实际，并没有意识到他们的局限所在。在当时的20世纪初期，他们对攀登如此高的一座山峰所遇到的困难束手无策。
1909 - THE DUKE
1909年—公爵之队
Seven years later it was time for the Duke of Abruzzis large expedition to Karakorum and K2. Besides the scientific exploration, this royal adventurer also had plans for alpine operations. K2 wasnow scouted closely and the famous mountain photographer Vittorio Sellatook a lot of fabulous and legendary photos. To start with, they tried to reach up through the South East Ridge (that later was named after the Duke). However, the bearers were not trained for this exposed climbing (The Sherpas were unfortunately "unknown" during the early part of the century!).
七年之后，阿布拉孜（Abruzzi）公爵的大型探险队抵达了喀喇昆仑山脉和乔戈里峰。除了科学勘探，这支一流的探险队还计划进行高山攀登活动。这次，乔戈里峰被仔细地侦察；闻名遐迩的山地摄影师维托里奥·萨拉（Vittorio Sella）拍摄了大量神话般的，传奇式的相片。起初，他们试图穿越东南山脊（后来这座山脊以公爵的名字命名）向上攀登。然而公爵雇佣的夏尔巴人挑夫从没接受过攀登无遮蔽山峰的训练（夏尔巴人【3】时运不济，在20世纪早期并不被世人所知！）。
【3】Sherpas:夏尔巴人，主要居住在中尼边境樟木口岸的立新公社（包括雪布岗）和定结县的陈塘区。居住在我国境内的人口有一千二百多人.“夏尔巴”，藏语意为“东方人”。
Northeast of K2, some of the expedition members reached the 6,666 metre high Savoia Saddle and from there they had a closer look at K2s giant North-Face. Later, the expedition made an attempt to climb K2s guardian in the west, the 7,544 metre high Skyang Kangri, but a giant gorge blocked their way at 6,600 metres. However, later on Chogolisa (7,654 metres) the Duke reached 7,500 metres with a resolute attack. This became an absolute high altitude record until 1922 when it was beaten on Everest.
在乔戈里峰的东北，探险队的一些登山队员抵达了海拔6，666米的萨渥亚鞍部（Savoia Saddle）。在那里，他们得以近距离地观察乔戈里峰巨大的北壁。之后，探险队试图攀登乔戈里峰西部的卫峰，海拔7，544米的斯开昂堪格里峰（Skyang Kangri【4】）；但是在海拔6，600米的地方，一条巨大的峡谷挡住了他们前进的脚步。之后，在海拔7，654米的乔戈里萨峰（Chogolisa【5】，探险队凭借坚定的意志抵达了海拔7，500米的地方。这成了一个绝对的高海拔记录，这个记录直到1922年在珠穆朗玛峰（Everest）上才被打破
【4】Skyang Kangri：世界第70高峰。
【5】Chogolisa：世界第53高峰。
1909 - NO PROGRESS
1909年—毫无进展
The Italians now celebrated their 20 year anniversary in Karakorum. This time the expedition was lead by the Duke of Spoleto, the nephew of the Duke of Abruzzi. The scientific leader was Professor Ardito Desio and it is mainly to his credit that the expedition didnt return home completely without results.
意大利人此时在庆祝他们进入喀喇昆仑山脉地区20周年。这一次的探险队由阿布拉孜公爵的侄子斯伯勒托（Spoleto）公爵率领。而科学勘测方面的领队则是阿迪托·迪塞奥（Ardito Desio）教授。正是主要依靠教授的声望探险队才没有毫无结果地空手而归。
The plan to try climbing K2 was abandoned and it was decided to concentrate solely upon scientific work in the Baltoro region
试图攀登乔戈里峰的计划被取消了。探险队决定只集中精力对巴尔托洛地区进行科学勘测。
1938 - THE AMERICANS
1938年—美国之队
In 1938 it was time for the next expedition, organised by the American Alpine Club and led by Charles Houston, who two years previously had been on the successful expedition to Nanda Devi. They were confident of succeeding this time too! They engaged a team of excellent Sherpas, led by the famous Pasang Kikuli. In the beginning of June the wholeexpedition reached the mountain.
1938年，另一次探险开始了。这一次探险由美国阿尔卑斯俱乐部（Alpine Club）组织，查尔斯·休斯顿（Charles Houston）领队；查尔斯于前两年曾成功地参加了对南达德维峰【6】（Nanda Devi）的探险。他们也对这一次的成功信心百倍。他们雇佣了一队由优秀夏尔巴人组成的挑夫队伍，并由著名的帕桑·基库里（Pasang Kikuli）率领。6月初，整支探险队抵达了山脚下。
【6】Nanda Devi: 南达德维峰, 喜马拉雅山中段的山峰。印度北方邦北境的最高峰，海拔7，817米。冰川地形发育。
On July 1, Camp I was established and several others followed. Theweather looked stabile and clear.
7月1日，1号营建立了；随后其他几个营地也陆续建立好了。当地天气又稳定又晴朗。
On July 18, Houston and Petzoldt reached the "shoulder" at 7,740 metres and theysucceeded in conquering the difficulties on thelowerpart of the mountain , the last high altitude camp was established at 7,530 metres.
7月18日，休斯顿和匹兹荷迪特（Petzholdt）抵达了海拔7，740米的山峰“肩部”，他们成功征服了在山峰低部地段遇到的困难。最后一个高营建立在海拔7，530米的高度上。
On July 21, Houston and Petzholdt started to push upwards again, trying to find possible sites for Camp VIII. A place is found right below the top pyramid. Petzholt however, continued climbing further on, trying the rocks, his highest point is estimated to be at 7,925 metres.The sky was clear and the sun warm. Continue or not? The decision was made and they started the descent. The expedition results looked promising, for the first time K2s summit was threatened for real.
7月21日，休斯顿和匹兹荷迪特两人又开始向上攀登，试图为8号营找一个合适的地点。他们在金字塔型山峰顶部的正下方找到了一个地方。然而匹兹荷迪特试图爬越岩石，继续进一步往上攀登。他攀登的最高点据估计是在海拔7，925米的高度。天空晴朗，阳光温暖明媚。是继续攀登还是下撤？他们决定开始下撤。这一次的探险结果看起来大有可为，因为乔戈里峰第一次几乎就要被登顶
1939 - GRIM DAYS
1939年—残酷的日子
Again the Americans stood in front of K2, this time with the excellent German-American climber Fritz Wiessner as the leader and again Pasang Kikuli leading the Sherpas. However, the other climbers didnt measure up to Wiessners class, something that would have serious consequences later on.
美国人又一次站在了乔戈里峰面前。这一次，探险队是由优秀的登山家德裔美国人福利兹·维斯纳（Fritz Wiessner）所率领，还是由帕桑·基库里来率领夏尔巴人挑夫队伍。然而，其他登山者的登山水平参差不齐，并没有达到维斯纳所要求的标准档次，这给后来的攀登中带来了严重后果。
Camps I - VII were set up at the same places as the year before and Camp VIII was established at 7,710 metres, the expedition member Wolfe remained here when Wiessner and Pasang went on ahead to set up Camp IX at 7,940 metres. On July 19 Wiessner and Pasang decided to try for the summit. They climbed through the rocks and it became extremely arduous. At 6 p.m. they reached about 8,380 metres. Pasang refused to continue, saying it was too late. Wiessner wanted to continue, the weather was so good and clear that the climb could be done in the moonlight. Pasang is immovable, and they start the descent.
他们在上一年探险队扎过营的相同地方上建立了1至7号营地，而8号营地则被建立在海拔7，710米的地方。探险队员沃尔夫（Wolfe）留在8号营，维斯纳和帕桑则继续前进，并将9号营建在海拔7，940米的地方。7月19日，维斯纳和帕桑决定争取冲顶。他们爬越了极其陡峭的岩石。下午6点，他们抵达了海拔大约8，380米的地方。帕桑说时间太晚了，拒绝继续向上攀登。维斯纳想继续攀登，认为天气很晴朗，在月光下也能够攀登。但是帕桑不为之所动，于是他们开始下撤。
During the descent, the rope got stuck in Pasangs crampon and was torn away from his pack and fell down the abyss. At 2.30 a.m. they reached Camp IX totally exhausted. Their big chance had slipped away through their hands; they had been closer to reaching an 8,000-metre summit than anyone before.
在下撤过程中，绳索钩住了帕桑的冰爪；冰爪从他的背包上被扯下来掉到了深渊里。凌晨2点半，他们完全筋疲力尽地返回到了9号营地。一次大好机会就这样白白从他们手中溜走了。他们比以前任何人都已经更接近这座海拔8，000米的巨峰峰顶了。
The next day, they rested, but the following day another try was made,taking a different route. Passang had only one crampon. After major difficulties, they headed back again.
第二天他们休息养精蓄锐；但是第三天他们从另外一条不同的路线尝试冲顶。帕桑只剩下一只冰爪了。在遇到极大困难之后，他们又一次往回下撤。
With no supplies remaining the following day, they descended to camp VIII, where Wolf welcome them with delight, he told them that during the entire time they were gone, no one had come up from Camp VII where a bigger supply depot was supposed to be. When reaching Camp VII, they found it abandoned. They spent the night there and the following morning decided that Wolf would remain, while Wiessner and Pasang continued down to organise a new attack. When they got to Camp VI it was clear that a catastrophe was near, also this Camp was abandoned, as were all the other Camps all the way to Camp II!
接下来几天由于给养耗尽，他们下撤到了8号营，在那里沃尔夫高兴地迎接他们。沃尔夫告诉他们，在他们不在的整段时间里，没有人从给养更加充足的补给站7号营上来。当他们抵达7号营，发现它已经被废弃了。他们在7号营过了一夜。第二天早上，维斯纳决定让沃尔夫留在7号营，他和帕桑继续下撤去组织一次新的攀登。当他们到达6号营的时候发现，一场大灾难很明显就要来临了：这个营地同样也被废弃了，而且一直到2号营的其他营地都是同样命运
Completely exhausted both physically and mentally, and suffering from frostbite, Weissner and Pasang reached Base Camp on July 24. While they had struggled for the summit, the whole organisation had completely fallen apart. Against Weissners orders, the remaining members of the expedition (that never reached higher then Camp II) had given the Sherpas orders to abandon all Camps up to number VII.
身心俱疲，又遭受冻伤的痛苦折磨，维斯纳和帕桑总算在7月24日抵达了大本营。就在他们拼命挣扎冲顶时，整个探险队已经完全崩溃瓦解了。探险队留下的其他队员（这些队员还没到达过比2号营更高的地方呢）违背了维斯纳的命令，他们命令夏尔巴人废弃了直到7号营的所有营地。
Now they had to save Wolfe! After two desperate and failed attempts, Pasang Kikuli and some other Sherpas managed to reach Camp VI on July 28. The next morning they got up to Camp VII and the very exhausted and apathetic Wolfe. Even after being given hot drinks he couldnt manage to descend immediately, but promised to be ready the following morning. The Sherpas returned to Camp VI where they spent the night. A storm with bad weather started to rage over K2 and they had to wait another day. At dawn on July 31 Pasang and two other Sherpas again climbed to Camp VII while the fourth, Tsering, remained in camp. A decision was made to somehow get Wolfe down or at least get a written message from him that would free them from all responsibility.
现在他们得回去营救沃尔夫！两次孤注一掷的失败尝试之后，帕桑和其他一些夏尔巴人总算在7月28号抵达了6号营。翌日清晨，他们爬上了7号营。沃尔夫已经筋疲力尽，无精打采了。即使给他喂了热水他也没办法立即下撤，但是他答应为次日早上的下撤做做准备。夏尔巴人们返回6号营过夜。坏天气带来的风暴雪开始在乔戈里峰上狂吹肆虐，他们不得不再等一天。7月31日拂晓时分，帕桑和另外两个夏尔巴人再次攀登到7号营，第四个夏尔巴人曾零（Tsering）则留在6号营。他们决定要千方百计把沃尔夫弄下去，或者至少要他写张纸条使他们能够解脱所有的责任。
This was the last ever heard from these four men. On August 2, Tsering alone reached Base Camp and told that none had returned and that no sign of human life could been seen higher up. Wiesser made a last desperate rescue attempt but was forced to give up after spending three days in Camp II waiting out a storm. This meant the end, any survivor could no longer be found on the mountain. Dudley Wolfe, Pasang Kikuli, Pasang Kitar and Pintso rest forever on K2. So ended the second American attempt on K2, with a tragedy. The expedition got massive criticism from both England and the U.S.A., and Wiessner had difficulties defending himself, but he was hardly the one to blame. Pasang Kikuli was one of the best Sherpas, and at this time he was equally compared to the now world famous Tenzing Norgay.
这是人们最后一次得到这四个夏尔巴人的消息了。8月2日，曾零自个儿抵达了大本营，告诉探险队说，没人返回了；高峰上也看不到生命生还的迹象了。维斯纳最后决定孤注一掷去营救他们，但是在2号营等到暴风雪过后的三天后，他们被迫放弃了营救。这就意味着，最后山上再也找不到任何生还者了。达德里·沃尔夫（Dudley Wolfe）,帕桑·基库里（Pasang Kikuli）,帕桑·基塔（Pasang Kitar）和品特索（Pintso）四人已永远长眠在乔戈里峰上了。第二支美国队的攀登乔戈里峰以悲剧收场。探险队在英国和美国受到了广泛地批评。维斯纳很艰难地为自己辩护；但是他是最不应该被谴责的一个。帕桑·基库里是最优秀的夏尔巴人之一，在当时，他同样可以和当今闻名全球的丹增·诺尔盖【7】（Tenzing Norgay）相提并论
【7】Tenzing Norgay：丹增·诺尔盖，尼泊尔人，1953年和埃德蒙·希拉里爵士（Sir Edmund Hillary）创下人类史上第一次成功攀登世界第一高峰珠穆朗玛峰之记录。
1953 - CLOSE CALL
1953年—邻近的召唤
After the war, due to the political conditions, no expeditions were made to Karakorum until 1953 when the Americans again headed for K2. The expedition consisted of eight men, including the veterans Houston and Bates (from the 1938 expedition), Tony Streather (who had been with the Norwegians on Tirich Mir in 1950) and George Bell (famous for his climbs in the Andes) in the front line. On June 19, Base Camp is established below the Abruzzi-Spur at 5,000 metres. The expedition didnt have any Sherpas since they had been denied entrance to Pakistan, they had to manage with carriers from the Hunza-people, who did show climbing talent. During the following three weeks the Camps were established - mainly in the same places as in 1938 and 1939. The weather looked good, but slowly turned. Suddenly storm winds became common, and all climbing activity was stopped for several days.
战后，由于政治形势的影响，直到1953年美国人再次向乔戈里峰进发前，都没有探险队进驻过喀喇昆仑地区。探险队由8人组成，第一线队员包括经验丰富的休斯顿和贝兹（Bates --1938年的探险队队员），汤尼·斯特利德（Tony Streather--曾于1950年和挪威人攀登过蒂里奇米尔峰【8】）和乔治·贝尔（George Bell--因攀登安第斯山脉而闻名遐迩）。6月19日，他们将大本营建在海拔5，000米的阿布拉孜山脊（Abruzzi-Spur）下。由于巴基斯坦政府不允许他们过境，探险队没办法雇佣夏尔巴挑夫，因此他们不得不安排根本不具备攀登天赋的罕萨【9】（Hunza）人作挑夫。在随后的三个星期当中，他们主要在1938年和1939年探险队扎过营的相同地方上建立了营地。天气看起来很好，但也在慢慢转变。突然暴风变得很常见了，所有的登山活动不得不停下来休整几天。
【8】Tirich Mir：蒂里奇米尔峰，世界著名雪峰。在巴基斯坦吉德拉尔以北55公里，邻近阿富汗边界。兴都库什山脉最高峰，也是巴基斯坦最高峰。海拔7，690米，世界第65高峰。
【9】Hunza：罕萨，又名“巴勒提特”（Baltit），“卡里马巴德”（Karimabad）。南亚克什米尔城镇。位于巴基斯坦吉尔吉特市的东北部罕萨河右岸。贸易中心。被誉为巴基斯坦最美丽的地方，背包客的世外桃源。由罕萨沿罕萨河谷东北经明铁盖山口可到中国新疆，往南经吉尔吉特市，沿印度河谷抵伊斯兰堡。
Finally, on August 1, the entire eight man team was together in Camp VIII at 7,750 metres, all in their very best shape and ready for the final attack.
最后，在8月1日，探险队全部8个队员都爬到了海拔7，750米的8号营。所有人的身体状况都很好，准备做最后的登顶冲刺。
Then the Gods of the mountain attacked! A violent snowstorm started to rage day and night. Thanks to Houston they had supplies for 10 - 12 days. A vote was taken, and two rope-teams were chosen for the attack against summit. All they needed was a few days of good weather. However, the storm never calmed down. Instead, the wind increased, shaking the tents more and more. On August 4 the 26-year-old Gilkey suffered a thrombus in one of his legs, it was almost impossible for him to move. His condition deteriorated and also his lungs were attacked after a few days. In the raging storm there was no possibility to get him down quickly to Base Camp - most probably, it would have been difficult to transport him at all.
这时山神发怒了！狂暴的暴风雪开始夜以继日地狂吹肆虐。多亏了休斯顿，探险队才有能坚持10-20天的供给。他们投票选出两个结组冲顶。他们需要的不过是几个好天气。但是暴风雪却没有一点停下来的迹象，相反越吹越猛，吹得帐篷东倒西歪，摇摇欲坠。8月4日，26岁的吉尔奇（Gilkey）有一只腿患了血栓，几乎不能移动了。他的健康状况迅速恶化，几天后他的肺部也出现了问题。在猛烈的暴风雪中要迅速把他送回到大本营是不可能的了—甚至可以说，要搬动他根本是很困难的事了。
Now it was a fight for everybodys life. It was clear that the storm would continue for some time. On August 10, the situation got critical in thehighest camp. There were almost no suppliesleft and Gilkeyscondition was very serious. Bell had also lost the feeling in his toes.
一场拯救每个人生命的战斗开始了。很明显暴风雪还将要持续一段时间。8月10日，最高营地里的形势变得很危急了。给养几乎耗光；吉尔奇的健康状况很严重；贝尔的脚指头也失去了知觉。
It was decided to make an attempt to get Gilkey down and the whole crew started to descend. There was no alternative anymore if they wanted to survive. The first day they only managed a few hundred metres downwards. In the evening the ropes entangled between the different rope-teams and five men fell, but Schoening managed to hold them alone! Fortunately no one got seriously injured. While the bivouac tents were put up, Gilkey had been secured a bit away. When went back to him, an avalanche had decided his destiny, nothing is left, his provisional stretcher attached with ice axes had been torn away, and in the howling storm nothing could be heard. The other seven climbers continued their struggle downward and finally they reached Base Camp after five days. Bell had serious frostbite to his feet and was carried all the way to Skardu - almost 200 kilometres.
探险队决定把吉尔奇带下山，全体队员也开始下撤。他们如果想要活命的话，已经别无选择余地了。第一天他们仅仅勉强下撤了几百米。晚上，两个结组之间的绳索互相缠绕在一起，有五个人掉了下去，但是斯古宁（Schoening）拼尽全力独自拉住了他们。幸运的是，没有人受重伤。当临时宿营地建立之后，吉尔奇被缚牢固定在一旁。当有人向他走过去时，一场雪崩已决定了吉尔奇的命运。雪崩经过的地方被冲刷得个精光；用冰镐临时缚成的担架被冲走了。在咆哮的暴风雪中，什么也听不见了。其他七名队员继续挣扎向下撤退，五天后他们终于抵达了大本营。贝尔的腿被严重冻伤，并一直被抬到200公里外的斯卡都【10】。
【10】Skardu：斯卡都，巴基斯坦巴尔蒂斯坦首府。位于吉尔吉特以西、中国新疆以南，距印度河和希加尔河交汇点约8公里处。海拔2286米。
The third American expedition had again been close to success. That all seven climbers managed to get down the steep Abruzzi-Spur under such adverse circumstances was literally more than a miracle!
1954 - THE ITALIANS RETURN
1954年—意大利人重返乔戈里
During 1953 Italian Professor Ardito Desio and Mario Puchoz scouted the terrain, seeking possible routes up K2. They probed the terrain up to 6,000 metres and made a lot of observations. When Desio got home, hemade the final plans to reachthe summit. He said that the only chance of succeeding depended onthe the plan being followed with a militarydiscipline and that every member was to leave his personal ambition for the expeditions best.
1953年期间，意大利的阿迪托·迪塞奥教授和玛利奥·普卓兹教授（Mario Puchoz）探查了乔戈里峰的地势，寻找可能的攀登路线。他们用探测器探查到海拔高达6，000米的地域并写了大量的观察报告。迪塞奥回到家后，制定了最后的冲顶计划。他说登顶成功的唯一机会要靠制定军事化纪律般的计划，每个队员要顾全探险队的大局利益，把个人的野心抛到一边去。
The 21 chosen members first had to pass through a medical examination and were tested in a pressure chamber. In the middle of January 1954, all members gathered in a tent camp at 4,000 metres altitude on the Mount Blanc massif. The oxygen devices were tested and every persons physical and mental condition was examined in detail. From this group, 10 men were chosen for the expedition. They immediately leave for a training camp on 4,500 metres on Monte Rosa.
被遴选出来的21名队员首先要通过医学检查，还要在加压舱里接受检测。1954年1月中旬，所有的队员聚集在位于勃朗峰【11】（Mount Blanc）海拔4，000米山丘上的一个帐篷营地。氧气装备检查好了；每个队员的身体及心理状况也进行了详细检查。从帐篷营中10名队员被挑选出来参加探险队。他们立即动身赶往位于罗沙峰【12】（Monte Rosa）海拔4，500米上的一个训练营地。
【11】Mount Blanc：勃朗峰，法语意为“白峰”。在法国、意大利边界。长48公里，宽16公里。海拔4，810米，为阿尔卑斯山脉最高峰。2，400米以上有现代冰川及雪原。筑有隧道长11.6公里，可通行汽车。
【12】Monte Rosa：罗沙峰，在瑞士与意大利边境，欧洲第二高峰
Just before the departure, a few men joined the party since the expedition failed to recruit any Sherpas. At the last minute the famous mountain guide Cassin resigned his alpine leadership.
就在出发前夕，由于探险队招聘不到夏尔巴人做挑夫，就招募了一些人加入探险队。在最后的关键时刻，著名的登山向导卡森（Cassin）出人意料辞去了他的高山领导职务。
The Approach followed the schedule and the route is the same as before, through the Abruzzi-Spur. Despite the bad weather, the higher camps were established one after another.
依据登山日程和路程而安排的登山进军路线和上次一样，也是穿过阿布拉孜山脊。尽管坏天气的不利影响，更高的营地还是一个接一个陆陆续续地建立了。
In the middle of June, all supplies for the final attack were stored in Camp IV. The expedition hoped to reach the summit before the end of the month. Hard winds and storms raged all over Karakorum during the following weeks and no progress was made. Would they not reach higher than their fellow countrymen from 1929? (The expedition from which Desio is a veteran).
6月中旬，为最后攀登所备的所有给养都储存在了4号营。探险队希望能在月底登顶。随后的几个星期里，狂风暴雪在整个喀喇昆仑地区上空肆虐，探险队毫无进展。他们会比他们1929年探险队的同胞们攀登得更高吗？（经验丰富的迪塞奥参加过那个探险队）。
The hard winds and storms calmed during the second half of July and the weather seemed to stabilise. Desio decided to take this opportunity as a last chance to reach the summit before the monsoon. Camp V was established at 7,300 metres and the next 300 metres above. At this point, an unfortunate thing happened: the 36 year old mountain guide Maria Puchoz from Courmayeur died of pneumonia in Camp II on July 20.
7月下半旬，狂风暴雪平静了下来，天气似乎变得稳定了。迪塞奥决定抓住这最后一线机会在季风来临前登顶。他们在海拔7，300米建立了5号营，在海拔7，600米建立了6号营。此时此地，噩耗发生了：来自科美亚【13】（Courmayeur）的36岁登山向导玛利奥·普卓兹教授于7月20日在2号营不幸罹患肺炎与世长辞。
【13】Courmayeur：科美亚，位于意大利西北边界的Valle dAosta (瓦莱达奥斯塔）区，是著名的滑雪胜地。
The expedition continued and Camp VIII was pushed forward to 8,150 metres, right below the 200 metre high and steep wall that is considered to be the climbs key to success. On July 28, four men reached Camp VIII in the evening and spent the night there. Of these four, two climbed on towards the summit next morning. Up on the ridge, just 200 metres below the top the oxygen suddenly ran out. What to do? Continue or descend? They continued without oxygen and finally reached the summit in the afternoon after a hard struggle. K2s summit is reached for the first time. They didnt stay long. The descent became dramatic when oneofthe companions fell but managed to stop the fall with his ice axe and his partners safety. At 2:30 p.m. the duo reached Camp VIII where their friends welcomed them with hot drinks. Everybody safely reached Base Camp on August 2.
探险队继续攀登，并将8号营向前推进到海拔8，150米的地方，正好处于一块高200米的陡峭石壁下方，这块石壁被认为是能否攀登成功的关键所在。7月28日，四名队员在晚上抵达了8号营并在那里过夜。这四个人当中，有两人在翌日清晨向峰顶冲击。在离峰顶还有200米的山脊上，氧气突然耗光了。怎么办？继续攀登还是下撤？他们决定不用氧气继续攀登。经过艰辛挣扎他们终于在下午抵达了峰顶。人类首次登顶乔戈里峰成功了。他们并没有待很久时间。下撤变得戏剧性：有个队员掉下去了但他成功地用冰镐和同伴的安全设施制止住了滑落。下午两点半，有两个队员抵达了8号营，他们的朋友们以热水欢迎他们凯旋。8月2日，每一个队员都安全抵达了大本营。
Who were the two climbers that reached the summit? It wasnt made public until the expedition came back to Italy. Desio wanted everyone to have the credit; the whole team was responsible for the success. The ascenders were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni.
谁是最后登顶的两名登山员？探险队直到回到意大利才对公众宣布。迪塞奥想让每个人都能享受这种声誉；成功是整个探险队的功劳。登顶的两个人是里诺·雷斯德里（Lino Lacedelli）和阿奇里·科帕哥诺尼（Achille Compagnoni）。
ADDITIONAL CHAPTER - BONATTIS VERSION
后记—有关博纳提故事的英译版本
On this expedition was also a young ambitious man that had quickly become the superstar of climbing and mountaineering in Italy. Despite his very important contribution during the expedition Walter Bonatti was later accused of being a liar and a thief. He has ever since fought to clear his name. As an addition to this article, you can read about Bonattis thoughts and about his effort in this K2 expedition here.
在探险队里也有个雄心勃勃的年轻人华尔特·博纳提（WalterBonatti），他在意大利的登山界迅速成了一个超级明星。尽管博纳提在探险队做出了重要的贡献，但之后他被指责是骗子和窃贼。从那时起直至今日他就为澄清自己的名誉而斗争。作为这篇文章的附加部分，你可以在这里阅读有关博纳提的想法和他在乔戈里峰探险队里所做过的努力。
"The wall was a stiff 60 degrees, it would had been like skiing on a bell tower roof"
- Hans Kammerlander (trying to ski down K2)
-“石壁是陡峭的60度倾角，就好像是在钟塔屋顶上滑雪一样”
-- 汉斯·卡梅兰德
K2 1954 - WALTER BONATTI
by Jonna Timonen for jerberyd.com200
In 1954, the summit of K2 was reached for the first time by the Italians Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. On the same expedition was a young ambitious climber who was regarded as the superstar of climbing and mountaineering in Italy. This is Walter Bonattis version.
1954年，意大利人里诺·雷斯德里和阿奇里·科帕哥诺尼首次成功登顶乔戈里峰。在探险队里有个雄心勃勃的年轻人华尔特·博纳提被誉为意大利登山界的超级明星。这就是有关他故事的英译版本。
One of the expedition members, Walter Bonatti, tells a different story of what happened on K2. Young Bonatti, aged 24 at the time, was to carry the oxygen bottles together with the Hunza porter Mahdi to Lacedelli and Compagnoni in camp 9. Before reaching the last camp where the two summiteers were waiting in their tent, darkness overtook Bonatti and Mahdi. They called out to Lacedelli and Compagnoni since they could not find the camp, but the latter did not direct them to the camp, neither did they come down to help, instead they shouted from their tent, urging the two carriers to leave the oxygen bottles and return to camp 8. This was impossible in the dark and the blizzard and so Bonatti and Mahdi were forced to bivouac out in the open, without bivouac gear or sleeping bags. As by a miracle, Bonatti survived the bivouac without any injuries while Mahdi suffered frostbite of both hands and feet. The following morning
Mahdi started the return to camp 8 and Bonatti followed soon after him, leaving the oxygen bottles. Later Lacedelli and Compagnoni fetched the oxygen bottles from where they had been left. According to them the oxygen ran out halfway, but they managed to reach the summit in spite of this.
探险队队员华尔特·博纳提讲述了发生在乔戈里峰上不同的故事。当时，24岁春华正茂的博纳提和一个罕萨人挑夫马赫迪（Mahdi）一起负责将氧气瓶搬运到9号营给雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼。在抵达那两个登顶者正等着他们的9号营之前，夜色的黑暗已经笼罩在博纳提他们头上了。由于他们找不到通往营地的路，他们就大声呼唤雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼，但是那两个人并没有给他们指路，也没有下来帮助他们，而是在帐篷里大声叫喊，催促他们留下氧气瓶并返回8号营。在黑暗和暴风雪中要返回去是不可能的了，博纳提和马赫迪被迫在没有露营装备和睡袋的情况下露营。很不可思议，博纳提没受任何伤幸存下来了，而马赫迪手脚却受了冻伤。翌日清晨，马赫迪开始返回8号营，博纳提留下氧气瓶后不久也跟着返回了。之后，雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼从博纳提他们留下氧气瓶的地方拿到了氧气瓶。据他们所说，氧气半路上就耗尽了，尽管如此，他们还是冲顶成功了。
After returning to Italy, the expedition in general and Lacedelli and Compagnoni in particular, were looked upon as heroes, but for some reason Bonattis effort to bring up the oxygen bottles and his remarkable bivouac were barely mentioned at all. During the next decade Bonattis part of the expedition was only briefly mentioned if at all by national media. Bonatti himself could find no reason to why his part of the expedition was overlooked and, it seemed, hushed down. Finally, on the tenth anniversary of the summit conquest an article appeared in one of the national newspapers accusing Bonatti of having intended a summit attempt by himself. Furthermore, he was accused of having used the oxygen designated for Lacedelli and Campagnoli during his bivouac; this would be the reason why the summiteers had run out of oxygen before reaching the summit. It turned out this story had been spread within the alpine community in Italy, but in order to keep scandals out of the expedition it had been quieted so efficiently it took a decade before even Bonatti himself was became aware of it through the article.
返回意大利后，探险队总的来说，尤其是雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼，都被视为英雄了。但是由于某些原因，博纳提搬运氧气瓶的努力和他那非同凡响的露营经历却很少被人提起过。之后的十年时间里，博纳提在探险队的作用即使被国家新闻媒体报道也是被简简单单一笔带过。博纳提自己本身也不知道为什么自己在探险队里的作用会被忽略，而且似乎被秘而不宣了。最后，在庆祝征服乔戈里峰十周年的纪念日里，有家国家新闻报纸发表一篇文章，指责博纳提曾打算自己独自尝试冲顶；而且，他还被指责在当晚露营中使用了备配给雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼的氧气。这可能就是为什么雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼在冲顶前会耗尽氧气的缘故了。后来事实证明这篇文章早就在意大利高山界内部传播开了，但是为了使探险队不介入这件丑闻，他们足足费了十年时间才有效地平息这件事，直到博纳提从报纸上刊登的这篇文章当中才知道这回事。
After these accusations were brought out in the open Bonatti started a lawsuit to clear his name. Eventually the newspaper lost the case. It was established that Bonatti could not have used the oxygen during his bivouac since he and Mahdi did not have oxygen masks in their possession (the masks were in camp 9 with Lacedelli and Compagnoni). Neither had he abandoned Mahdi as was suggested in the article. On the contrary, he had done everything possible to help the Hunza make it through the night while the summiteers in the last camp had refused to come and help them. Although Bonatti was freed from accusations of being a liar and a thief, the court did not determine the true course of actions.
这些指责公开之后，博纳提开始为澄清自己的名声进行诉讼。最后那家报社败诉。事实表明：由于博纳提和马赫迪没有氧气罩（氧气罩在9号营雷斯德里和科帕哥诺尼他们手上），在那晚的露营中，博纳提是不可能使用氧气的。他也没有像文章所暗示地那样抛弃了马赫迪，相反，当那两个在9号营的冲顶者拒绝下来帮助他们之时，他在黑夜中竭尽全力帮助这个罕萨人度过难关。尽管博纳提从骗子窃贼这样的指责中解脱出来，但法庭并没有做出支持博纳提诉讼的确切判决。