(MountEverest.net) None of Pakistan's 8000ers (K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, GI, and GII) have been summited in winter. In Nepal, only Makalu still remains unclimbed during the cold season.
据MountEverest.net 10日报道，到目前为止人类未曾成功在冬季登顶巴基斯坦境内的任何一座八千米以上的高峰（乔戈里峰，南迦帕尔巴特峰，布特阿特峰，迦舒布鲁姆Ⅰ峰及迦舒布鲁姆II峰），同时还有尼泊尔境内的马卡鲁峰。
Interestingly, this season we will have no less than three Italian attempts for winter firsts; Simone La Terra is already in Pakistan headed for Nanga Parbat; Simone Moro will set out for Broad Peak after Christmas; while Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich will attempt Makalu together with yet unconfirmed Kazakh climbers.
有趣地是，今年冬季将至少有三名意大利人尝试这些山峰的冬季首登。Simone La Terra已在巴基斯坦蓄势待发向南迦帕尔巴特峰顶冲击；Simone Moro圣诞节后出发进军布特阿特峰；Nives Meroi、Romano Benet、Luca Vuerich及尚未确定的哈萨克登山运动员组队尝试攀登马卡鲁峰。
Return to Makalu
The news were released on the team's website this weekend. Nives and Romano will return to Makalu only months after their previous attempt on the peak which was aborted after a single summit push. "There really is too much snow," Nives said prior to the push, "we sink at every step. As Romano and I are alone, we must break all the tracks and one such attempt is all we will manage."
重返马卡鲁峰
上周末该攀登队在其网站上发布了此消息，Nives和Romano将会在上次冲顶时刻失败数月后重返马卡鲁峰。Nives说:"那里的雪太厚了，每走一步都会陷进去。当就Romano 和我俩人时，真是步履维艰，这次我们设法成功。"
The two climbers went up to 6600 meters and made a bivouac for the night. Next day, they pushed for 7400 meters, reaching the ridge, when a gale blew up. The exhausted climbers tried to find a place for a last camp, and shoot for the summit from there were forced to retreat to BC.
这两名登山者曾到达马卡鲁峰海拔6600米处，并晚上在此露营。转天他们向海拔7400米处冲击的时候，在到达山脊遇到了暴风雪。筋疲力尽的两人试图找到一个地方安顿下来，然后再向峰顶攀登，所以他们不得不撤回了大本营。
Himalaya was very snow loaded this fall, and Romano reported that the conditions were absolutely horrible, "we had to break trail at every step, sinking deep, the conditions were impossible and I was just too tired to continue. We gave it our all, but there was nothing to do."
今年秋季喜马拉雅山的雪非常大，Romano回想说："那的条件简直太恶劣了，每一步走的都很困难，深深地陷进雪里，再进行下去是不可能的，而且我已筋疲力尽，没力气再进行下去了。我们竭尽全力了，但是仍没成功。"
The climbers have since reconsidered and their quest for Makalu could well end up one of their finest climbs yet. Departure is fixed for 24 December.
他们一直考虑重登马卡鲁峰，这他们攀登史上写下辉煌的一笔。出发日期已确定在12月24日
Nives Meroi shares the world top position with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner for most 8000ers climbed by women. Both ladies have summited 10, 8000ers. Nives has Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Manaslu and Annapurna left to finish the quest for all the 14, 8000 meter peaks summited.
Nives Meroi与Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner一样是世界上登上8000米山峰最多的女性，这两位女士分别攀登过10座8000米的山峰。在全球14座8000米以上山峰中，Nives就只剩下马卡鲁峰、干城章嘉峰、马纳斯鲁峰、安纳普尔那峰没有登顶了。
Nives and Romano latest summited Everest this past spring, without oxygen and from the north side.
Romano夫妇最近一次登上珠穆朗玛峰是在今年春天，从北坡以无氧方式。
翻译：faye
校译：大鹏
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