《北京青年报》上登了丁丁的阳朔攀岩文章．兼说几个概念名词
-mh 07:32:43 11月9日
《北京青年报》上登了丁丁的阳朔攀岩文章，还有攀岩者的感受． 写得生动有趣．大家可以自己去看．
我只挑几个毛病，虽然不是大问题，但希望错误和不妥 的地方应该尽量不要传播开：
＊难度系数"最为普遍的是美国标准"不准确．美国攀登普及程度远不 如很多欧洲国家．再加上美国人相对不爱出国旅行，在美国以外，世 界上大量路线不是美国的YDS制给难度的．阳朔最早的路线没有美国人 开出来的．如果我们看到YDS的报道多那大概是因为国人的第一外语是 英语的缘故．我希望国内攀岩普及的过程中有自己的难度系数标准． 如果要采用已经存在的难度系数标准（如YDS）那就需要有相当数量对 这个标准有准确的级别感觉的人．这需要这些人攀登过相当多的定了级 的路线（每个等级几十条路线，并且包括壁，缝，摩擦，宽缝型等等）这在国内一时办不到．
＊＂分段的具体位置一般选择在容易设保护点、休息稍舒适的地方＂
是分段的最重要标准．
请问什么是back-stepping和drop knee
来去匆匆 2000年一月22日 4:32 p.m.
“back-stepping和drop knee是許多攀岩好手常用的技巧。。。。” back-stepping是不是侧拉？ drop knee是什么？ 什么时候用？
这是drop knee
mh 2000年一月26日 4:00 a.m.
回复: 不会是这个吧？--(来去匆匆)
back stepping简单说就是用左脚去踩右脚右边的点（反之亦然） 能从壁顶走下来的路线没必要要求段长在主绳长度的一半以内． 另外带根6mm以上的和主绳一样长的静态绳就可以完成全绳长速降， 或者使用双绳也很常见．这使段长可以有全绳长，加快攀登速度．
＊先锋攀没有必要一定非每隔两三米就设保护点．如文中说的丁丁 曾隔了十米才放了个机械塞．这完全由leader本人决定．YOSEMITE 的HALFDOME上有条路线叫SNAKE DIKE，有的整个50m段里没有一个能 放保护点的地方．在困难的路线上，设保护点不但费时，还费体力． 先锋攀和顶绳攀登在体力上的最大不同就是要停下来做保护点．
＊bigwall 有专门的定义．因为大岩壁的特点就是大，所以要用 的器材给养很多，所以是要用吊袋（haulbag）装器材物资（而不是 用背包），使用专门的吊账休息（而不是依靠寻找自然形成的露营台阶）． 在技术上的特点是leader和follower之间有一套协调的分工，使时 间尽量不花在器材搬运上．传统的bigwall攀登是器械攀登，所以 经常要用几十斤器材．欧洲的三大北壁是登山型的"wall"，和专用的 bigwall攀登不是一回事．梅斯纳尔出过一本书，英文本叫＂ＢＩＧ ＷＡＬＬＳ＂讲的是他在世界各地攀登山壁的经历，和在YOSEMITE 发展起的bigwall技术基本上没有关系．
A1～A6六个级别是器械攀登难度等级，和bigwall没直接关系．（ bigwall攀登可以采用自由式）A6这个级别是所谓＂new wave"器械攀 登难度等的结果，现在有争议．
Re: 请问到底难度系数是怎么定的。
-mh 09:46:06 9月06日
对于新路线，首攀的人按以前爬过的（已经存在等级的）路线给 个等级，再后来的人评价，爬的人多了，时间长了就有了公认． 所以只要一个地区攀岩的人多了就可以定自己的等级标准．世界 上有法美德（ＵＩＡＡ）英澳等等级制．
刚开始发展一个等级制时，刚开始的几个级的难度跨度有些任意． 但约定成俗．随着技术进步，有了新的更难的等级，因为一个等 级差意味多大难度跨度大家有了明确的感觉．新的更难的等级由此 在已有的等级上外推． 又见以前的ＹＤＳ等级的贴子．
看MH提到rec.climbing,赶紧去看，看到有很多名词解释。
来去_匆匆 14:20:06 8月23日
Climbing rope -- fulfills many functions, e.g., it may be used for lassoing projecting spikes, crossing impassible gorges or for pulling up climbers who have lost their nerve.
A solo climber -- One man falling alone.
A roped party -- Several men falling simultaneously.
Hemp (rope) -- A rope that breaks.
Nylon (rope) -- A rope that melts.
Ice-ax or "Pick" -- An implement for chopping holds in mud or soft rock.
Piton or "Spike" -- An implement for opening tin cans (various other uses).
Knife -- Indispensable. Should be instantly attainable. One of these saved several lives on the Matterhorn.
Snap-link -- A link that snaps.
Safety Helmet -- A safety device for climbers falling head first. If the fall is a long one, the climber may become completely impacted into his helmet and be telescoped into a small globular mass which can be stowed in a rucksack (cf. mountain rescue).
A Tiger"s Web -- A hopeless tangle of rope or ropes.
A Pied d"Elephant -- A special short climbing boot for climbers who have all their toes amputated.
Leepers -- Small insects encounted on Welsh sea cliffs.
Krabs -- Another unusual hazard encountered on Welsh sea cliffs.
(if this last hazard is considerable one, Lobster Claw Crampons are worn).
A Cow"s Tail -- The fray end of an old climbing rope.
A Lay-Back -- An unusually confortable bivouac.
A Hand-Jam -- A climber with one hand caught in a crack.
A Foot-Jam -- A climber with one foot caught in a crack.
A Good-Jam -- A climber who is permanently struck in a crack.
A "Joe Brown" -- A climber with large hands who gets stuck in cracks.
Whillans -- An orange-coloured rucksack.
A Novice -- Someone (often dead) who should be kept off the mountains at all costs.
An experienced climber -- Someone whose death was unavoidable.
An Alpine Club Member (cf. Veteran) -- Someone who never dies but slowly fades away.
(Contrast:) An Alpine Veteran -- Someone who has been to the Alps.
Steeplejacks, Munich Fanatics, Dangle and Whack Merchants, or Masters of the Sophisticated Modern Techniques - Alterative terms (of a different vintage) for a piton climber.
A careful climber -- A slow climber.
A cautious climber -- A very slow climber.
A climbing-nut -- A reckless climber.
A running belay -- A cowardly second.
A Thread belay -- An asphyxiated second (due to a slow third man and a very fast leader).
A Descendeur (French) -- A Term of derision. The opposite of a climber.
A psychological belay -- (Alt. usage) (1) A female second; (2) Looks like a belay but isn"t...
A Classic Route -- Much loose rock and grass.
A Direttissima -- A very long free fall or "Plunge".
A long Run-out -- A very long arrested fall.
"One of Nature"s Last Strongholds" or "The Last Great Problem" -- A B.B.C. Outside Broadcasts Production.
Overhanging -- Vertical.
Vertical -- Steep.
Scrambling -- Fairly Steep.
Interesting -- Nerve-racking.
Thin -- Non-existent.
Amusing -- Die Laughing.
The Crux -- Where everyone else unties to watch the leader.
"Fissure" (French) -- A dirty, unpleasant crack.
Backing up, Straddling, Back and Knee, Back and Foot, Foot and Mouth -- Various postures adopted in Chimneys (?Derivation -- Kama Sutra).
Considerable Exposure -- No Privacy.
Free climbing -- No charge for spectators.
A Rurp -- A strenous grunt. A combination of a rift and a burp.
Abseiling -- Showing off, Pretending to Fall.
Committed (to the Route) -- Under Suspended Sentence of Death.
Peeling Off -- Undressing.
Climbing Calls (cf. Blackshaw -- The Penguin"s Guide to Mountaineering)
"Tight Rope, Please" -- "HELP!!!"
"A Little Slack" -- "Lower away gently".
"Below" -- Leader announcing he is dropping a rock on his second"s head (cf. Safety Helmets, Further Uses of).
Bong -- One hit.
Bong Bong -- Two hits.
Two tugs on the rope -- Second must be securely belayed from above before proceeding. If two forcible tubs fail to dislodge the leader he may assure all is well.
command meaning
(climber) "on belay" "do i tie in with an overhand knot or a clove hitch"
(belayer) "belay on" "i"m not ready yet"
(climber) "climbing" "i"m having second thoughts about this"
(belayer) "climb on" "i"m still not ready"
(climber) "slack" "what do you think i am, a eunuch?"
(belayer) "slack" "did he say tension?"
(climber) "don"t give me no slack!" "falling"
(belayer) "what?" "did he say more slack?"
(climber) "tension" "i"m climbing up the goddamn rope"
(either) "shit" "shit"
